Ortler North Face

The Ortler is considered one of the most important summits in the Alps as the highest mountain in South Tyrol, for mountaineers. All routes to the Summit are challenging high tours, of which the path from the North is the most committed, especially as passes through stunningly beautiful high mountain landscape. You may underestimate the tour but definitely not.

 

The highest ice wall in the Eastern Alps and why it’s worth to give gas.

 

High ice wall in the Alps

The Ortler in South Tyrol Vinschgau and with 3905m the highest point in “Tirol”, is a great mountain. North face enjoys a special reputation (approx. 1200m) and a little dangerous, because it is high. Parts of the increase are threatened by a massive serac (glacier) and if it becomes warm, certainly rocks are to be expected. But it is free yes, one to go at low temperatures and under the serac, one must not necessarily dawdle.

It is still dark while you are packing for a quick ascent of the north face. And it’s icy cold down in the valley. Slowly, it’s getting light. Finally, you go through beautiful larch forest, then later over rubble, the path leads into the wintry mountains. However, the whole focus is rising, height meter feeding, climbing, not the beauty of the mountains.

 

Speed climbing

“Speed climbing” is not too good image in mountaineering circles. Because, clearly, what really counts is the experience. As a mountain climber you should be able to give gas but in certain situations. If this works, by the way completely new possibilities to experience great adventures open. And when the next storm coming then somewhere on the other side of the world, speed and efficiency can be life-saving. For this, it is worth to train yourself to practice to perfect. And finally to test out how it so works as a team or alone.

Back to the Ortler: denied after about an hour the area finally on. The respiratory tract pain, the legs are somewhat difficult. You are still a piece about avalanche cone, then buckle on the crampons and swap the sticks against ice devices soon. The climb to the “throat”, where the actual ice climbing begins, pulls up. But at some point this section is also behind me and it feels good to climb right now. Always regain the cold, brittle ice cream with a weird noise when you are going to take the picks. The rest of the Summit is rather short because of the icy wind.  Rappelling at Abalakov ice hourglasses would be of course, but for that you’d need a rope.

 

Speed and efficiency on the mountain

At lunch, you are back  in Solda 4 hours and 49 minutes after you had left in the morning. 2100m in ascent and descent are behind me. The indigenous rockets need sure not so long and Ueli Steck anyway not more than an hour. For this you could gain some valuable insights  and a certain excitement was there, too. Not to hurt the knee because the bag is too heavy? Or not is one long at the hut, despite darkness? Or forms in the climb again a jam behind? Climbing and mountaineering are worth to make a few of these thoughts is to work harder, to improve it. Not any time for, but to create something special to experience adventure and to get home again safely.

Ortler North face solo - and a few thoughts drum around-1

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